Hair, skin, and fingernails are made of keratin. Henna stains keratin red-orange to near black; different recipes, temperature, time,  and application techniques create the variation in stain color.  Henna's stain is not opaque, it is translucent;  henna color does not mask the skin tone, it blends with it.

Henna applied to skin stains the top, dead, epidermal  cells above the melanin-bearing layer.  Thus, the  pigment of dark skin cannot mask henna, as it lies  underneath it.  The red-orange to black/brown henna color will be a translucent layer over the natural color of  the skin. 

Similarly, a bittersweet color crayon line  drawn onto a tan, brown or black paper will make a  translucent mark, creating a different effect on each,  while being the same color.   The bittersweet will  appear as a dark mark on pale  paper, a light mark on  black paper, and tone against tone on brown paper.   Bittersweet henna will appear dark on  pale skin, and a warm bittersweet orange on darkest  skin.  The colors in each case are translucent, not opaque, so they blend with the underlying skin tone.   Heavier applications of higher quality henna will make a more saturated stain, lighter applications will make a more transparent stain. 

4) Pattern adapted from traditional Nigerian art.

Creating contrast and harmony with henna on dark skin requires different techniques than those used to henna pale skin. Henna on dark skin will be a harmony of shades, tones and contrasts rather than a simple dark line on a light ground.  In addition, a person of color has palm and sole skin paler than the rest of their skin.  Hand and foot patterns must accommodate and compliment this color change.

Here are henna patterns that accomodate the color change from Palm to Back of Hand

Since the henna creates a translucent stain over the underlying skin tone, try to create harmony and contrast by choice of henna source, recipe, duration of application, and aftercare.   If the henna stain matches the skin, it will be nearly invisible.  To compensate for henna similar in color to the skin tone, use bold patterns where a heavy, saturating, application of henna is appropriate.  To create more opaque dark browns and near blacks,  add an essential oil to the paste that has a high level of terpinene.  Tea Tree essential oil is at least 35% terpinene, and has high levels of pinene.

 A more delicate effect with warmer browns can be  achieved with finer lines and an essential oil with  moderate levels of pinene, such as Pine Oil, or Pine Needle Oil.

Here are patterns for subtle effects against dark skin

6) Traditional pattern from Mali

Reddish henna on dark skin will appear redwood or  red-orange against the darker undertone.  Red henna  stains are obtained from fresh rainy-season harvests.   To retain the red-orange tones of henna, mix only  henna and lemon juice.  Apply the henna paste, and  keep it in contact with the skin and slightly moist as  long as reasonably possible. This can be accomplished  with thick paste applications, repeated applications and wrapping  henna paste to the skin for several hours.  Bold, simple, patterns work well on dark skin, particularly ones that can be easily reapplied for dye  saturation.  Henna is applied on the "night of the henna" to Tuareg men's  hands, arms, feet, and legs.  It is then wrapped with gauze, and covered by either palm leaves or bits of blue plastic tarp left behind by tourists and anthropologists.  The henna stains their midnight- dark skin a rich redwood color.
 

Here are Bold Patterns for Repeated Application
Here are Bold Patterns for Thick Application

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